Facts about Handmade Soap
When soap is made by hand, the naturally occurring ingredient
glycerin is left completely in the bar of soap. None of it is
removed as in other styles of soaps. In order to make the extremely
hard French Milled soaps, the glycerin must be removed or the soap would
be too soft. More glycerin may be added later, but never at the
original level of the soap making process. Companies may extract
the glycerin through a variety of methods and then add a percentage back
to say it contains glycerin.
Also, it is our belief that ALL handcrafted cold and hot process
soap is "glycerin soap". Not simply the clear transparent soap
with added glycerin. Transparency does not make a glycerin soap.
On average - and it changes with the recipe, made from scratch,
handcrafted soap contains around 10% naturally retained glycerin.
ALL BAR SOAP IS MADE WITH LYE
(or something similar and just as caustic)
If it is made correctly, there is NO LYE remaining in
the final bar of soap. This includes every major, popular
cosmetic soap and every made from scratch, handcrafted soap. Soap
is made by adding water and oils together, along with something to form
them into soap. That ingredient is usually Sodium Hydroxide which
is lye. For liquid soaps, it is Potassium Hydroxide. Even if
soap is made as truly old fashion soap was with burned wood or plant
leave ashes, it still forms a caustic solution - using soap made from wood
ashes (potash) is not a gentler soap, if it's made incorrectly,
remember Grandma's lye soap stories?
What produces the naturally forming glycerin that is
retained in handcrafted soap? The chemical reaction called
saponification.
Water (or milks, herbal teas) + Fat (oils) + Lye =
Soap with glycerin retained.
The soap maker must calculate the correct amount of lye
for the specific oils used in each recipe. This controls the
amount of "super-fat" or remaining oil in a soap to make it moisturizing
to the skin. If too much lye is used, the bar may be hard and
crumbly. If too little, the bar becomes soft and will become
rancid faster.
Lye must be used to make the soap, but there should
never be any remaining lye in the final bar to hurt the skin. Certain
"country" style lye soaps, the hard white bars that some people remember
turning their hands red and burn, have residual lye in them. Lye
soap made that way works well for poison ivy and oak and small bug
bites. We recommend
MoSoap.com for finding that style of lye soap. The soap maker
should always mention your are purchasing strong lye soap.
The reason people think of "lye soap" as being harsh is because grandma
didn't have a digital scale to measure ingredients perfectly and was
many times making her own lye. It is a difficult, time consuming
process and being able to acutely gauge lye strength can be difficult.
Errors were made at times with this process.
LEARN HOW TO READ THE INGREDIENTS
Just because the ingredients do not include the word
lye - doesn't mean it wasn't used. Soap ingredients can be listed three ways. Each
example is the same bar of soap.
-
Ingredients: Water, Olive Oil, Beef Fat and Lye
-
Saponified Oils of Olive and Tallow
-
Ingredients: Sodium Olivate and Sodium Tallowate
(Lye is a salt which is sodium).
Make certain you purchase soap from
a soap maker or company that discloses the list of ingredients on the
package. Soap is sometimes considered a cosmetic and must be
labeled by FDA standards and sometimes it is not - and no ingredients
are required. If the soap just says, Vegetable Glycerin Soap -
there are other ingredients used to make it than just glycerin and you
are not being told - ASK!
THERE'S NO SUCH THING AS
100% GLYCERIN SOAP
Sorry, it's true -
there is not one on the market today. Now, the maker added 100%
glycerin to the soap and you have no idea how much always, but the
soap is not made of 100% glycerin. Read the ingredients! If is was, it
would be the MOST disgusting non-lathering, mushy soap one could
imagine - I know because I make it every time I teach a class on
natural care products to prove my point.
CLEAR SOAP IS
NOT SUPERIOR TO ALL OTHERS
Clear, transparent, made from scratch
soap can be made - but if it is truly from scratch, the soap makers
will tend to list every ingredient because they take great pride in
making this particular style of soap. It's very time consuming
and difficult to achieve pure clarity - you will be paying top
dollar. When you see soaps listed with 100% Vegetable based,
those soaps are made from pre-manufactured bases using a variety of
synthetic ingredients. Always ask if it was made from
scratch. Guess what makes soap clear most of
the time? Alcohol - from corn grain alcohol to
petroleum rubbing alcohols.
Many times, clear soap
- 100% Vegetable based soaps you just read about, are thought of by many consumers as "glycerin soap".
They are made with a
variety of foaming agents, wetting formulas (makes the water wet to
lift dirt and oil) and alcohols along with the standard mix of oils,
water and lye. The "feel" that many people like from this clear soap
is from synthetic ingredients.
If you like the feel -
great that's really all that matters - but at least know what you are
using.
MP
or Melt & Pour Style Soap
The white or
clear soap base that can be purchased at hobby stores and melted in a
microwave is made up of a variety of ingredients both naturally
sourced and synthetically
reproduced. This style soap is fantastic for creating some of the
most beautiful works of art in soap making! Colors, fragrances and
intricate molds can be used that could never be used in the Cold
Process style of made from scratch soap that Botanical Earth is mainly
known for. Just make certain you request ingredients to learn what is
used.
Here's a listing of ingredients of a standard 100% Vegetable based
soap:
Water, Glycerine (Animal or plant based?), Sodium Stearate
(most are vegetable based but can be animal), Sorbitol, Propylene
Glycol, Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES), Stearic Acid, Lauric
Acid and Sodium Chloride (regular salt).
Always ask the soapmaker what's in your bar if it's not listed!
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